Fashion Starts in NY then onto London then Milan...

By Laura Medina

The official Fashion Week Calendar or Marathon always start with New York.

Why? Easy, New York has always been more commercial, taking years to build itself into a capital of Ready-To-Wear which developed from "Ready to hit the Racks. Ready to the Market." to manufacturing an array of sophisticate but accessible creations that the real woman can aspire to and relate to which translate into "buy" that will eventually turn into heirloom and vintage.

From what started as an intimated, closeted setting of RTW press previews inside the designer's studio has morphed into a linear circus with a lot of flash and bang because those New York fashion designers know they're throwing their Fall Fashion Shows smack dab in the middle of Hollywood's Awards Season when those nominees, presenters, and guests are hunting for that smashing gown, that cute and hot cocktail dress, and those super-sexy eveningwear that their fans hope to emulate.  For New York designers (and brands), this syngery is direct tie-in from sketch to shopper.  Like they say, New Yorkers know their market.

In other words, New York Fashion Week has everything for everyone for every occasion. 

Carlos Miele sent down a diverse collection in living, breathing vivid shades of scarlet, ultra blue, deep fuchsia and berry. 

His collection of structured A-line skirts and chic trousers for the day and sleek gowns, luxurious furs, tweed coats and strong-shouldered jackets for the evening displayed that mentality.

He used white black and white linear prints, graphic patterns, stripes, and geometric laces with curvilinear silhouettes and cuts following the natural form of the body, hence the "sex appeal" emphasizing a natural woman's body, optical "nip & tuck," red carpet worthy for Hollywood.

The cute day dress suit and "ladies that lunch" dresses where only the sleeves are sheer and the skirts flare are appropriate for the New York Rising Junior Set about to take over the old guards.

Jet-setting women can see themselves wearing the fluid jumpsuits and pants topped off with a dazzling crop jacket, good for everywhere, effortless chic.

New York Fashion Week...there's everything for everyone for anytime. 

Tom Ford's London Show.

Thanks to omnipotent Anna Wintour (congrats on her new leadership role of being Conde Nast's new Art Director), she jammed London Fashion Week right between New York and Milan.  Now, the fashion circuit is a non-stop go-go which makes it easier for the Yanks to debut their version of British fashion to real Brits.

St James’s is home to the famous Jermyn Street, which boasts the highest number of world renowned shirt makers on one luxury shopping street, celebrated the keystone of closets, the basic white shirt.  Popularized by "Mad Men" in America then popularized in GB by James Bond and "Downton Abbey," the shirt-makers of St. James threw "White Shirt Week" where each tailor shop displayed their take on the wardrobe stand-by.  

A shirt exhibiting a three-button cuff is a trademark look of Turnbull & Asser; a ready to wear version of this shirt costs £145. Mother of Pearl buttons complement Emma Willis’ signature look for £290. Emmett’s signature shirt, at £95, is made using Baby Twill White, a weave known for its soft texture that becomes even more supple over time. In contrast, Budd’s distinctive shirt, £115, is made of white poplin two fold cotton with a classic Budd forward collar. New & Lingwood’s signature style involves a curved collar ending in a point, allowing the collar to lay properly on the upper breast bone, and costs £95. Harvie & Hudson’s iconic shirt is the plush and luxurious white Herringbone and a white ready to wear version costs £64.50. Favourbrook’s 1850’s Victorian Morning Wing Collar Dress Shirt at £90.00 has an accentuated high collar and emphasised wing lapels that create a stunning effect when paired with a silk cravat. Along with the medium weight white cotton poplin, covered buttons and French-cuffs, the straight cut tailoring creates an elegant profile. Hilditch & Key’s bestseller is the Carlton with their classic collar and double cuff, made with the finest two-fold cotton poplin and real shell buttons. 

 

Royal Warrant holder Stephen Quin from Turnbull & Asser believes that “Every man should have at least three white shirts in their wardrobe”, with the best accessory to complement the white shirt being a silk tie. 

St. James is also the hub for London Fashion Week where Tom Ford chose to throw his first runway show in almost nine years.

Against the backdrop of Lancaster House, London Fashion Week's main venue, his collection was based on a multi-ethnic embroidery theme, exploring the use of lively patterns, sequins and bright colors. 

Things got really Brit when Tommy Hilfiger did his twist on British Men Tailoring where strict and structured construction is livened up with madcap checks and plaid and whimsical  prints.

 
Oh, let's face it.  Tommy loved hanging with the Editor of British Esquire, Alex Bilmes at London’s exclusive member’s club, The Zetter Townhouse, with London's hottest "It" Crowd: Jamie Hince, Benedict Cumberbatch, Harry Treadaway, Jeremy Piven, Ronnie Wood & Sally Humphries, Daisy Lowe, David Gandy & Sarah Ann Macklin, Victoria Pendleton, Riz Ahmed, Nick Grimshaw and Willy Moon.  One or two Rolling Stones tossed in there.

 “I am delighted to be here in London to celebrate my Fall Winter 2013 Tailored collection during   London Collections: Men.  England is very close to my heart, and has always been a great source of inspiration to me with its rich heritage of tailoring. It’s an honor to be able to lend my support and celebrate the incredible talents in menswear design and I am proud to be one of several international brands who will be in the Capital to extend my support to London Collections: Men’s on a global level.” said Tommy Hilfiger.
 

Tommy Hilfiger's double-breasted plaid wool coat with the fur shearling trimming the collar sures comes in handy when editors rushed on over to Milan during a deary, cold European Winter...

 

 


 

 Fratelli Rossetti's Pop Op booties, heels, and loafers fits right in with Banana Republic's "Mod for Mad Men" Collection.  The mid-'60's bold black & white graphics in swirly prints are ready to goove.

 

Marni's prim & proper ladylike Fall 2013 Collection reached back to the Fifties, heavily reliant on fur shrugs, wraps, trims, and skirts in a deep and somber palette, reflecting the grey Winter.  The Italians can put luxurious fabrics to good use, if not to cheer up but for ease and comfort during those long Winter days.

Based on all this globe-trotting, for a newbie, London Fashion Week (maybe, because it's fresh) has the most fun in making functional clothes look...fun and warm and wearable for many a Winters.

This scribe can see herself stealing that Tommy Hilfiger double-breasted wool plaid jacket with the fur shearling then making her own; and thank god, Tommy Hilfiger is an American Brand.